--- title: "A Bosch Gas Burner That Keeps Clicking: What It Is Doing and How to Stop It" description: "Why a Bosch gas burner clicks after lighting or with the hob switched off: moisture around the electrode, a burner cap out of position, spillage in the ports. What to" url: "https://boschmiami.support/blog/gas-igniter-keeps-clicking/" date_modified: "2026-08-18" Category: "Common Problems" --- # A Bosch Gas Burner That Keeps Clicking: What It Is Doing and How to Stop It ## Which clicking you have There are two, and they are different problems. **Clicking while you turn the knob, until the burner lights.** That is the appliance working. On most of these cooktops a single ignition module sparks every electrode simultaneously — so all four or five click, and the one with gas flowing to it lights. It sounds excessive and it is normal. **Clicking that continues after the flame is established, or with every knob off.** That is this page. Something is telling the module a burner is calling for a spark when none is. ## The three causes, in the order they actually occur ### 1. Moisture around an electrode By a wide margin the most common, and the most self-correcting. The electrode is a small ceramic-sleeved probe sitting beside each burner. A boil-over, a spill, or a wet cloth dragged across the hob puts water where the spark is generated, and the module reads that as a burner asking for ignition. **What to do:** with everything off and cold, lift each burner cap and the ring under it, and dry underneath thoroughly. Then leave it. If a clean or a spill preceded the clicking, give it a full day — the ceramic holds moisture longer than the surface looks like it should. ### 2. A burner cap out of position Lift a cap and set it back a millimeter out of its recess and two things happen: the burner does not light cleanly, and the flame never sits where the sensor expects. The module keeps trying. **What to do:** cold, with the gas off, take each cap off and put it back deliberately. It should sit flat, square, and drop into its recess without rocking. This is worth doing after any clean — caps go back in the wrong position more often than people expect, and two of them look identical until you try them. ### 3. Debris in the ports The ports are the small holes around the burner ring, and a boil-over that dried in them changes how the flame travels. Part of the ring lights, part does not, and the ignition system keeps working at it. **What to do:** cold and with the gas off, look along the ring. Anything baked into a hole clears with a pin or a stiff brush. Do not use anything that will widen the hole. **Everything on this list is done cold, with the burners off.** Not because the job is dangerous but because a hot cap will burn you and a lit burner will not tell you anything useful. ## What South Florida adds Near the water the electrodes and their leads corrode faster than the manufacturer's schedule assumes. Salt in the air reaches the underside of the cooktop, and an electrode that has to spark through corrosion sparks weakly — which produces clicking that never resolves into a flame, and eventually a burner that will not light at all. It is a slow failure and it announces itself: the burner takes longer and longer to catch, over weeks, before it stops. That is the cheap moment to deal with it. ## When it is the module or the switch If everything is dry, the caps are seated, the ports are clear, and it still clicks with the hob switched off, the problem is upstream of the burners. - **A stuck ignition switch** behind one of the knobs, telling the module that knob is turned when it is not. Often the clicking correlates with one specific knob's position.- **The ignition module itself.** Less common, and usually accompanied by weak sparks everywhere rather than clicking with everything off. Both are real repairs and neither is a large one. What decides which is a measurement rather than a guess, and it is quick. ## What we do on the visit The free causes first, in front of you, because they are the answer most of the time and because you should be able to do them yourself next time. Then the switches, then the module. Ten minutes of that usually settles it. If you can smell gas at any point — not the momentary whiff when a burner lights, but gas — stop, turn everything off, leave the doors open and call the gas utility. That is ahead of us in the queue, and no appliance question is worth working around it. --- **[Read full article: A Bosch Gas Burner That Keeps Clicking: What It Is Doing and How to Stop It](https://boschmiami.support/blog/gas-igniter-keeps-clicking/)**