---
title: "What Each Bosch Error Code Actually Costs to Fix"
description: "What common Bosch codes cost to fix: E15 leak protection, E24 and E25 drain, E22 filter, E12 scale, E09 heat pump, plus the codes that cost nothing but the visit."
url: "https://boschmiami.support/blog/what-each-bosch-error-code-costs/"
date_modified: "2026-08-18"
Category: "Cost Expectations"
---


# What Each Bosch Error Code Actually Costs to Fix

## Why nobody answers this question properly

Search any Bosch code with the word "cost" after it and you get pages that either avoid the number entirely or give one that cannot be right.

The reason is structural. **This manufacturer publishes what its codes mean — and what it publishes is a circuit, not a component.** One code, several possible causes, and they are not close together in price.

So the honest version of this page is a code mapped to a *range*, with the cheap end and the expensive end named, and the thing that separates them stated. That is what follows.

**One thing first, and it is free.** Photograph the display before you clear anything. Codes vanish when a machine is reset, and on the newer machines there is a second group of numbers that is the half that actually narrows the problem.

## The dishwasher codes people actually search

### E22 — the filter

The filter in the floor of the tub is blocked. It unscrews by hand, rinses under a tap, and goes back in five minutes.

**Cost: usually nothing.** If we come out for it, the visit — and we will show you how so it does not happen again.

### E24, E25 and their four-digit twins

The machine cannot get water out. Five causes: the drain pump cover, a kinked hose, a blocked air gap, a disposal knockout plug that was never punched out, and the pump itself.

**Cost: the visit at the low end, a drain pump at the high one** — published ranges put that part at roughly $100 to $250 with labor. Four of the five causes need no part at all.

The same condition shows as E25, E6102, E61-03 or four flashing lights, depending on how old the machine is.

### E15 — leak protection

A sensor in the base pan has found water and locked the machine out. This is the protection working; the cost is whatever was leaking.

**Low end:** a hardened door seal. **Middle:** a hose connection or a weeping inlet valve. **High end:** a cracked sump, which is a larger job.

Turn the water off at the valve under the sink while you wait. And do not tip the machine backwards to clear the lockout — it drains the pan, resets the code, and repairs nothing.

### E12 — scale in the heat pump

Not a repair at all. The machine is telling you it needs descaling, which is a maintenance visit and one of the cheapest things on this site.

**Cost: a service.** Ignored for a year it becomes the entry below, which is the most expensive part in the machine. That is the whole argument for acting on it.

### E09, E20 and the heat pump family

The heater inside the heat pump. On these machines circulation and heating are one sealed assembly, so a failure in either replaces both.

**Cost: the top of the dishwasher range,** and the point where the series matters — the same part on an entry-series machine can approach what the machine is worth, and on an upper-series one rarely does.

Worth asking about scale first: a heat pump struggling to heat in hard water is sometimes a heat pump full of scale.

### E06 — the door sensor

The machine cannot confirm the door is shut. Half of these are the door rather than the switch — a rack pushed out slightly, a tall handle fouling the seal.

**Cost: nothing, or a modest part.**

### E27 — supply voltage

The voltage reaching the machine is too low. **This one is not an appliance repair at all.** No part inside the dishwasher changes it, and if it repeats the person to call is an electrician.

## The laundry codes, briefly

The washers write their codes with a colon and a second group of numbers, and **the second group is the half that decides the price**:

| Code | What it is | Where it sits |
| --- | --- | --- |
| E:36 variants | Drain pump blocked | Often the visit — the filter is owner-serviceable |
| E:30 / -10 | Water not arriving | Free to check: tap, inlet screens, hose |
| E:30 / -80 | Water not leaving | Hose, standpipe, outlet height — usually installation |
| E:30 / -20 | Too much detergent | Free, and a habit rather than a repair |
| E32 / H:32 | Unbalanced load | Not a repair. Protection working |
| E80 | Drive circuit | A real repair, and a technician job |
| E:00 / -23 | Water in the base | Depends on the leak — turn the tap off first |

## The one thing all of these have in common

The code gets you to the right page in about ten seconds, which is genuinely useful and better than most brands manage.

What it cannot do is tell you which end of the range you are at — and on nearly every code above, the two ends are separated by whether something needs cleaning or something needs replacing. That is what a diagnostic settles, and it is why ours is credited toward the work rather than added to it.

## Why the four-digit codes exist at all

Worth a paragraph, because it explains why searching your code sometimes returns nothing.

Older machines used a short two-digit set — E15, E24, E09. Newer control platforms use a longer one — E3100, E6103, E2030 — with more room to be specific. The conditions did not change; the numbering did.

That means two things practically. **A four-digit code with no results is usually findable under its two-digit equivalent**, which is what the list on our error codes page pairs up. And **a machine with no digital display says the same things with lights**, which is not a lesser signal — the manufacturer publishes the mapping, and on that machine the lights are the code.

## The codes that mean stop rather than book

Three, and they are worth separating from the price question entirely:

**A leak code.** Turn the water off at the valve. The cost conversation can wait; the machine has already decided it is cheaper to stop than continue.

**A heating-circuit code on a dryer.** The manufacturer says technician, and we agree with that one.

**A drive-circuit code on a washer.** Same.

Everything else on this page can wait until somebody has read it properly.

## Where the range comes from, so you can check ours

Every figure quoted here traces to national cost aggregators — HomeGuide, Angi, Fixr and their equivalents — narrowed by what the part actually is on this equipment. They are published, they are checkable, and where our figure sits above one of them we say why.

The one place we deliberately disagree with the published range is dryer heating parts: the aggregators assume a generic element at $15 to $35, and Bosch OEM heating components are quoted at $210 to $234 on their own. That does not make the repair unreasonable — it makes a general cost guide read low for this brand, and we would rather say so than let the invoice do it.

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