---
title: "Dishwasher leaking"
description: "Bosch dishwasher leaking: water on the floor, or a machine that has stopped and refuses to start."
url: "https://boschmiami.support/symptoms/dishwasher-leaking/"
date_modified: "2026-08-18"
Appliance type: "Dishwashers"
---


# Bosch dishwasher leaking

### The fastest diagnosis is the code

If the machine has stopped with a leak code, that is the protection system rather than the problem. Turn off the water at the valve under the sink and leave it off — the machine has already decided it is cheaper to stop than to keep going.

### The lockout is a feature

A float and a sensor sit in the base pan of these machines. When water reaches them the dishwasher shuts down, drains what it can and refuses to restart. It is the reason a small leak here becomes a machine that will not run rather than a ceiling repair downstairs — and it is why the code is not the problem, it is the alarm.

### What is actually leaking

- The door seal, hardened and no longer touching at the corners
- The sump or its gasket, weeping slowly under the filter
- Hose connections, especially after the machine has been moved
- The inlet valve, which lets water past even when the machine is idle
- Foam from too much detergent, which is not a leak at all

The door seal

Hardens with age and stops sealing at the bottom corners first. The cheapest cause here, and the one that leaves water at the front edge of the door.

The sump and its gasket

Under the filter. Weeps rather than pours, which is why it fills the base pan over weeks and trips the sensor before anybody sees water.

Hose connections

Particularly after a machine has been pulled out and pushed back for any reason. Worth suspecting if the leak started right after other work.

The inlet valve

Weeps under pressure even when the machine is off, so the base fills between cycles. A machine that trips overnight without running points here.

Too much detergent

Foam escaping past the door seal looks exactly like a leak. Worth ruling out first if it started when the detergent changed.

Turn the water off

At the valve under the sink, before anything else. This is the one check that has to happen first.

Look at the door seal

Run a finger round it, especially the bottom corners. Hard, cracked or flattened is your answer, and it is a modest repair.

Check the detergent

If it started when you changed brand or dose, run one cycle with half the amount before booking anything.

Photograph the code, then book

And do not tip the machine to clear it. That empties the pan and resets the lockout without repairing anything.

The machine may lock itself out

What it usually means

Machine dead with a leak code showing

Water at the front edge of the door

A damp cabinet base with no visible puddle

The fastest diagnosis is the code

If the machine has stopped with a leak code, that is the protection system rather than the problem. Turn off the water at the valve under the sink and leave it off — the machine has already decided it is cheaper to stop than to keep going.

The lockout is a feature

A float and a sensor sit in the base pan of these machines. When water reaches them the dishwasher shuts down, drains what it can and refuses to restart. It is the reason a small leak here becomes a machine that will not run rather than a ceiling repair downstairs — and it is why the code is not the problem, it is the alarm.

What is actually leaking

The door seal, hardened and no longer touching at the corners

The sump or its gasket, weeping slowly under the filter

Hose connections, especially after the machine has been moved

The inlet valve, which lets water past even when the machine is idle

Foam from too much detergent, which is not a leak at all

---

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